What’s the hype with Retinol?
While we specialize in green, clean, and organic beauty, we do understand that the benefits from certain synthetic ingredients can be considered unmatched, and are generally safe to use in moderation. Retinol is a perfect example of this! We offer several different options for those of you looking for a natural alternative, but also cater to the crowd wanting something a little more aggressive.
Depending on who you talk to in the skincare community, Retinol is either seen as a miracle ingredient, or as something you should steer clear from. But what is it?
To simplify it:
Vitamin A = Retinoid
Retinoid = Umbrella-term for derivatives of Vitamin A
Vitamin A is naturally occurring in certain foods, and is often added as an ingredient in anti-aging skincare products
There are several different derivatives of Vitamin A that vary in strength (and name.) When broken down, they all provide similar benefits, so choosing one really just depends on how quickly you want to see results, how much your skin can tolerate, and what exactly you’re trying to achieve. The weakest to strongest forms:
Retinyl Palmitate: Best for sensitive skin as it is the weakest form
Retinol: Most tolerable form, and therefore the most popular one (and what we refer to in skincare products)
Retinaldehyde: The strongest form of a non-prescription Retinoid
Adapalene: Best suited for those fighting stubborn acne and oily skin
Tretinoin: Derivative of Vitamin A (also known as Retin-A) that is more aggressive and can only be prescribed by a doctor (ex: Accutane).
So why is this ingredient so popular?
It was first formulated to address acne, but it turns out it doubles as an anti-aging ingredient as well! It helps to stimulate epidermal turnover and causes your skin to rapidly exfoliate itself, thus speeding up the rate at which dead skin sloughs off, providing you with new, brighter, more even-toned skin. It also stimulates the production of collagen and elastin, which is why it’s so great for smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles, old and new.
Retinol also works to unclog pores, minimize inflammation and post-acne hyper pigmentation, and also kills bacteria that forms breakouts, and is therefore often recommended for those dealing with acne.
What’s the catch?
There’s a process that your skin undergoes when first using Retinol called “Retinization”. The effects can include redness, dryness, sensitivity, and flaking, but should go away once your skin has adjusted. To avoid these, it’s recommended to add the product into your regimen slowly, using it every third night at first and then building up from there. For some, however, the effects can be heightened and make it almost unbearable to continue using Retinol, which is why so many people tend to swear off this ingredient. There are also a number of things you have to avoid when using Retinol, such as:
Direct sunlight: Retinol increases your skins sensitivity to UV lights, making it more susceptible to sunburns and sun damage. Sunscreen and sun protection are essential when using this.
Waxing: Since using a Retinol is also a form of exfoliation, we tend to have less dead skin cells on our body compared to people who aren’t using a Retinol. This results in thinner skin, making it easier to tear or damage. This lack of dead skin cells means that the wax has more direct contact with our epidermis, and can cause the wax to lift off a layer of skin and result in a painful burn. (Check-out our blog on Sugaring to learn about a safe form of hair removal while using Retinol!) Always make sure your esthetician is aware if you are using a Retinol! (Or any Retinoid, really!)
Starting out with a low dose Retinol product, such as the Gentle Retinol Night Serum from Marie Veronique, would be a great way to introduce this powerful ingredient into your routine. This serum is one of our favorites, as it contains both Vitamin A and Vitamin C, as well as Sodium Salicylate, which helps with inflammation and makes this product safe even on sensitive skin. It also contains a ceramide complex which will help to retain moisture in the skin, making it to where you won’t need to add on a heavy moisturizer like most do when using a Retinol.
Plant-based Retinol’s:
For those of you wanting something natural and without the harsh side-effects, there are plant-based options out there for you that we personally love! Granted, the results won’t be quite as fast or dramatic, but with consistent use you’ll be able to achieve the same glowy, youthful skin. There are two main forms that we recommend:
Rosehip Oil
You’ve probably heard of this ingredient, as it’s quite popular among green beauty brands. It contains Vitamin A, naturally, as well as Vitamin C, which work together to promote skin regeneration and collagen production in the same way your Retinol product would, but in a much more gentle way. Vitamin C can also help reveal brighter, more even toned skin. Vitamin E and essential fatty acids help to deeply nourish and hydrate the skin, and also offer anti-inflammatory benefits, as well as a reduction in scarring and hyper-pigmentation, making it a great choice for those of you dealing with acne. Pai’s Rosehip Bioregenerate Oil is one of our top picks because of its CO2 extraction process, making it one of the most potent forms of Rosehip Oil on the market.
Bakuchiol
Originally used in Ayurvedic medicine to help address hyper-pigmentation, this ingredient has recently become the talk of the town for having benefits similar to that of Retinol. While it isn’t a form of Vitamin A, this Babchi plant-extract has made its way into the green beauty world by being the only naturally occurring ingredient that’s just as powerful as a Retinol product, without the sensitivity! It’s so gentle, in fact, that you can use this as often as twice a day, even during the day, if desired! If you’ve used other forms of natural Retinol and weren’t impressed with the results, we definitely suggest giving this ingredient a try. The Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Serum from Herbivore is our favorite form because you’ll receive the amazing anti-aging effects of Bakuchiol, as well as the healing effects from Turmeric and Holy Basil, and intense hydration from Tremella Mushroom.
*Natural retinol alternatives are only meant to replace Retinol based products, not prescription Retinoids that are of a much higher dosage. Prescription Retinoids are often meant to treat something that Retinol may not be able to.
Warmly,
Team Toccare